Christopher Braun O-200 taildragger LS wing

I don't know if it helps anyone, but I have building consistently, and documenting the build with pictures. But, I realized that while I have been updating the log with pictures, I haven't mentioned that there were updates here in a long time.

Here is the link to the photo log.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1146026219 ... oarTgp7SfA

Just an update for anyone watching the site and pictures from time to time. New pictures posted. I have been working on getting our flight school and rental company up and running. Still working about every other day for a bit each time. Tail
Is done. Spar and rear fuselage are next. Will have more time now that I will be out at field near hangar 3-4 days a week. Been a couple of hiccups, but nothing major. Mainly adjustments from complete match hole drilling kit before to one that isn't match hole on many parts. Onward and upward!

Tony,

Thanks! Yeah, I inherited a huge amount of power tools from a fellow zenith builder who moved away. I agree, a smaller belt sander is fine. Had the combo with 4 inch belt already though. Bought a dressing wheel today just in case for grinder. Thanks for that reference on rudder. I have a feeling mine was ok. But, easier to start again now.

Small world Christopher! Yes I live just outside Portsmouth next to the golf course (I don't golf!). Thanks for the info guys!

[Tony Spicer]

Man I love this hobby. Always something to learn! Just did some research on grinding wheel dressers. Didn't even know they exist. I'm gonna buy one tomorrow for my grinding wheel. Thanks Tony for opening my eyes to something new!

Personal opinion, but I think grinding wheels are pretty much useless when building a Panther. Ditto 4" belt sanders.

My 1 x 30 belt sander is the most used tool in the shop. Get a variety of grits, as well as a non-woven belt for deburring. Throw away the side plate on the sander, and belt changes can be done in under 10 seconds.

Tony

[Tony Spicer]

Tony, if you read this, can you tell me why reference point would confirm twist? If I flip the rudder on either side with Clecos in, but not fixture, should the trailing edge be flat on both sides along the 2x4s? I say yes.

Looking at your photos, I think you have too many 2 x 4's in action. Only need two. One under bottom rib and one under top rib fixture. Tops of 2 x 4's must be parallel. Weights to hold it flat, then drill hinge. It's the hinge that locks the skin in place. It will also lock twist in place. If there's twist, you'll be able to see it. Stand the rudder up on the bottom rib. Back away from the trailing edge and center the bottom of the trailing edge between the two forward bends. Run your eye up to the top. Trailing edge should still be centered.

Tony

Man I love this hobby. Always something to learn! Just did some research on grinding wheel dressers. Didn't even know they exist. I'm gonna buy one tomorrow for my grinding wheel. Thanks Tony for opening my eyes to something new!

Tony,

Ah! I didn't really think about that. I used it for about two years with my Zenith. But, the good news is, I have a sanding disc and belt sander craftsman combo in the hangar. I think it has 100 disc and 150 belt. Will have to check. Need to bring it home tonight and start using it. Thanks for the headsup!

Ragnar, as for the rudder twist, I had the top 1/5 of the rudder trailing edge bow up slightly when I laid it down after clecoing the ribs. I could hold it down with weights to keep it flush with 2x4s, on both sides. The center rib and stiffeners were fine. Funny part was, when I attached the fixture block, getting ready to put the hinge in, it sat flush flipped either way. So, based on the fixture it was fine I think. But, laying down one 2x4s it was not. Also, there was a big gap between the the skin overlaps on the leading edge, but I think the hinge goes between the skin, not on top of the skin overlap. so that gap would be right. Heck, it may have been right, but given the implications to handling and speed, want to make sure it's right

Tony, if you read this, can you tell me why reference point would confirm twist? If I flip the rudder on either side with Clecos in, but not fixture, should the trailing edge be flat on both sides along the 2x4s? I say yes.

Also, Ragnar, I looked at your signature, and you live about 10 miles from my hometown in Portsmouth! My parents and brother still live there. PMH pies and burgers. My nieces and nephews go to Notre Dame.

Nice pictures! quick question, why do you think you had a twist in your rudder? I just finished my elevators and will be starting the rudder next week. Just wondering if you could give me a heads up.

[Tony Spicer]

Christopher,

Just an observation about photo #20. Stone grinding wheels and aluminum aren't a good match, as the aluminum will quickly clog the wheel. Only way to get rid of it is to continually dress the wheel.

Stop by your local Harbor Freight and pick up one of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-x-30- ... 61728.html

40 or 80 grit will quickly remove what you want gone. Follow up with 120 or finer to remove sanding marks.

Tony