Agree with Tony. I have the countersink extension and bit that fits in a cordless screwdriver. Did 99% of the holes in the RV8 with it and still works like a charm Time for a fresh one for the Panther though
I like this tool so much that I bought a second just in case it broke while I was deburring. I even found a 3/16 Burraway and bought it. I do feel like I should point out that I was using the tool just like Rachel advises. Avery told me that they didn't sell them anymore because they kept breaking. I figured that everyone must be running them too fast, so from the start, I set my pressure regulator at 20# and pulled the trigger just enough to get it running. So, try it, but I don't think that mis-use is the problem, but using it on this very thin material, may be a problem.
Excellent info!!! And makes perfect sense. Dan Heath also brought up a good point. Using a buraway tool is an art. If you press too hard or run your drill too fast then you make the hole bigger. Gentle pressure and low rpm is the key to a buraway
There's been considerable discussion on the builders group about the best way to end up with a hole that's close to #30 in size after the dimple has been formed. Some drill #30 then dimple. Others drill #31, then dimple. In both cases, the hole ends up being oversize. There is a belief that oversize holes contribute to proud stems when the rivet is set. Personally, I drill #30 then dimple and have had no issues with proud stems.
At one time Cleaveland Aircraft Tool had a die designed for 120 deg, 1/8" dia rivets. What's unusual about the die is the pilot is 3/32". Drill a #40 hole, dimple, then drill #30. Result is a perfect #30 hole every time. No more steps from start to finish, just a shuffling of the order.
Problem is Cleaveland has been out of stock for about six months. Mike Lauriston at Cleaveland told me there will be a production run starting this week, and that they should have dies in a week or two. Part number is DIENQ.